![]() Young boas do best on mice, but should be transitioned to rats by the time they are big enough to eat large mice.ġ rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. ![]() Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not feed your snake from your fingers. ![]() Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.Īllow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Instead, support larger animals over one shoulder and under the other arm. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Boas should not be allowed to wrap around a handler’s neck as they can restrict airways in the process of supporting themselves. Boas use their tails to support themselves, so expect that they will grab ahold of your hand, arm, or clothing when being handled. ![]() There are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this, and you should be consistent in practice. You should study and practice tap training with your boa. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant or original (yellow) Listerine diluted to 10% with water.īoas are generally docile snakes, but they typically have strong feeding responses. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. Provide your boa with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Using the correct substrate and misting occasionally is usually sufficient to maintain appropriate levels. Place a good quality hygrostat in your boas enclosure to monitor humidity. Boas do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one. Night drops in temperature are not recommended. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basing spot. A dome light with a ceramic heat emitter is preferable for front opening glass enclosures. We prefer heat panels as a heat source for plastic and PVC enclosures. Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to 88-90 degrees. Remove any wet or mildewed aspen any time you notice it. Aspen will work if the humidity is too high, but it must not be misted as it will mold quickly. Provide a hide at both hot and cool ends.Ĭoco chip and cypress both make excellent and great looking substrates for most boa enclosures. Boas appreciate the opportunity to climb. Avoid glass aquariums with screen lids as they do not hold sufficient humidity. Upgrade your boa’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.Įnclosures for boas must be long enough for the boa to stretch out fully and exercise. This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to boa care. Despite their size, common boas can make an excellent choice of pet snake for novice keepers due to their generally docile nature, hardiness, and longevity. It is often confused with the Columbian or true red tail boa, Boa constrictor, of which it was considered a subspecies until relatively recently. The common boa, sometimes called the “red tail” boa, is a medium to large snake from Central and South America, as well as parts of Mexico. Paper is acceptable for adults.īaby enclosure size: 20” x 10” x 12” – 30″ x 12″ x 12″ Origin: Central & South America, some parts of Mexico
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